Some
East African port details supplied by the "Cruiser Log" webmaster
based on his own observations whilst cruising the area on sv
SEEROSE. There are many safe ports along this seaboard
but below are a few details of some from personal experience.
This information should be used as a guide only and please confirm
any updates here.
Please remember that the people of Africa are wonderful,
friendly people but are very poor and will perceive a cruising
yacht as hugely wealthy. Violent attacks on the East African
coast are almost unheard of but theft from unattended yachts
can be a problem with outboard motors, food supplies and money
being the prime targets. Just be sensible and enjoy cruising
this wonderful coastline and you will soon find that it is no
less secure than anywhere else in the world.
KENYA:
Tony
Britchford, Kenya Net 14.316mhz at 0500hrs GMT is extremely
helpful to cruisers in the Indian Ocean and along the East
African coast and is based at Kilifi Creek.
It
is NOT recommended that a yacht enter the Mombasa port - There
are a couple of creeks just North of Mombasa which are much
more user friendly for cruising yachts. However, should it
be necessary to enter the port of Mombasa there is a yacht
club with difficult anchorage (steep drop-off) as shown on
the relevant chart. Security here could be a problem.
Kilifi
Creek, Kenya (approx 40 miles North of Mombasa)
This is a well protected creek which is entered through a
break in the outer reef (see relevant chart). It is well worth
contacting Tony Britchford ("Kiore"- VHF channel 16) before
entering as he is very helpful in assisting your passage into
the creek. You will pass under a bridge (70'/21m) and
also be careful of the power line spanning the creek soon
after the bridge. There is a small repair shop and close access
to the main Mombasa road where many local taxi's are available.
There is a customs office near the bridge and then proceed
immediately by road to Mombasa to complete immigration formalities.
Mtwapa
Creek, Kenya (approx 20 miles North of Mombasa)
This is a well protected and safe anchorage with good amenities
for cruisers. Fuel and water is available on a dock. The shore-based
resort is owned by a German ex-pat and security is good. Access
to the main Mombasa road is easy. Entrance is through a dog's-leg
channel through the outer reef. The author found the relevant
chart and beacons very accurate. You should enter the channel
on an almost high incoming tide as the current in the channel
is strong. Once into the creek anchor off the restaurant on
the starboard bank - beware the overhanging powerline should
you proceed beyond this point. Proceed directly to Mombasa
by road for immigration and a customs official will call on
you at Mtwapa Creek for the cost of the taxi fare.
TANZANIA
Tanga
05 deg 04' S, 39 deg 06' E. Admiralty chart 866, VHF channel
16/12
As you sail in behind the bluff anchor off the most wonderfully
friendly little yacht club on the port side of the channel
just past the final dog's-leg into the port. DON'T miss this
port of call. Good access from here to the Tanzania safari
parks. Customs and immigration facilities available.
Dar
es Salaam
06 deg 49' S, 39 deg 19' E. Admiralty charts: port - 693,
approach - 694, VHF channel 16/12
It is compulsory for yachts to check into the harbor (customs
& immigration facilities) to obtain written permission
to move round to the Dar es Salaam Yacht Club http://kempnet.de/dyc/
. The yacht club is in the bay just North of the port entrance
and it's facilities are unequalled North of Richards Bay,
South Africa. The anchorage there, I'm sure, would be a little
uncomfortable during the NE monsoon but WELL protected from
the Southwesterly. A few cruisers left their yachts here for
a flight home. When you depart Dar es Salaam it is not necessary
to sail back into the port - a taxi ride into Dar to complete
formalities at customs and immigration is all that is required.
UPDATE: Dec'01 - a cruiser reported that he was given permission
on radio by port control that he could proceed directly to
the Dar Yacht Club (Masasani Bay) and to proceed by taxi the
following morning to Customs & Immigration. An American
visa for 3 months is USD$50.00
Zanzibar
06 deg 10' S, 39 deg 11' E, Admiralty chart 3211, VHF
channel 16/12
A 'strange quirk' about Zanzibar is that although it is
part of Tanzania you are required to "check out" from the
mainland when you sail to Zanzibar and go through the formalities
again on arrival in Zanzibar. There are many anchorages around
this 'mystical' island but it is better on arrival to anchor
directly off "Stone Town", close to the port, to facilitate
the customs and immigration formalities.
MOZAMBIQUE
Nacala
14 deg 47' S, 40 deg 68' E
Nacala is possibly the finest deepwater port in Africa although
facilities are minimal. Extremely well protected inside the
port. Anchor off a small beach 200m before the wharf. Fuel
and water is available as well as customs and immigration
facilities. Basic provisions in the small town but not advisable
to leave your boat unattended as youngsters paddle out in
dugouts selling fruit, etc.
Bazaruto
The Bazaruto Archipelago is another safe hide-away on the
Mozambique coast. Follow the channel as per the chart and
anchorage on sand is on the South of Santa Carolina Island
(in the middle of the bay). In a South-westerly move further
into the bay to the lee of Benguera Island - be careful to
follow the channels (the author had a crew member up on the
spreader to see the channel). It is always safer to move on
a 3/4 incoming tide in this bay. There are a number of small
holiday resorts in the area. Wonderful diving and fishing.
Supplies are available in the village of Villancoulos in the
S/W corner of the bay.
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